The ancient Etruscan civilisation sprang up in Central Italy around 900 BC, but just 600 years later their culture was absorbed by the Romans. However it’s still possible to find little pockets of mountaintop villages in this area clinging to long-forgotten traditions and customs that could be seen as very much an echo of a race whom DH Lawrence referred to as “…a vivid, life-accepting people, who…lived with real fullness.” A wonderful description of the spirit of Ciociaria, still ringing true three thousand years later.

“Italy today is far more Etruscan in its pulse than Roman: and will always be so. The Etruscan element is like the grass of the field and the sprouting of corn, in Italy: it will always be so.”
DH Lawrence, ‘Etruscan Places – travels through forgotten Italy’ (1932)

ABOUT CIOCIARIA – THE WILD HEART OF ITALY

Just an hour’s drive from Rome, Ciociaria is a timeless region steeped in history surrounded by the Apennine Mountains and its valleys are dotted with mountaintop medieval villages. The region spans the broad spectrum of Medieval, Roman, Megalithic and Neolithic eras, with many structures from these very distinct and different epochs still intact. In fact, the oldest human skull in Europe was discovered in the city of Frosinone within the region, dating back to over 800,000 years old, showing that this region has long supported human civilisations with its abundant rivers, lakes, forests, mountains and valleys.

After the local Etruscan Italic tribe, the Ernici, were defeated by the Romans in around 300 BC, Ciociaria became the favoured location for Roman Emperors such as Marcus Aurelius, Commodus, Septimus Severus and Caracalla to have summer residences and for aristocratic Romans to build their country villas and make their estates and was known as the Campagna (idyllic countryside). It was the birthplace of the Roman Senator, philosopher and orator Cicero, the Roman Consulate Marcus Agrippa, as well as the Roman generals Sulla and Gaius Marcus and the Empress Flavia Domitilla who was married to Vespasian.

In medieval times the region flourished, with the city of Anagni becoming the seat of residence for five 12th and 13th Century popes (before Christianity’s Papal centre was moved to France, and then finally back to Rome). Most of the mountaintop villages today are perfectly preserved medieval delights, and often the main church in the centre at the top of the hill is built on top of a Roman temple, which itself has been built on top of the remains of a pagan Etruscan temple.

Ciociaria is a region of magical layers, with its own culture, cuisine and dialects tracing back to its Etruscan heritage – and it’s just waiting to be rediscovered.

“To the Etruscans, all was alive; the whole universe lived; and the business of man was himself to live amid it all.”

ABOUT OUR WILD HEART OF ITALY FOOD + WINE CULTURAL ENCOUNTER WITH CIOCIARIA

Ciociaria is also Paolo’s birthplace, and through his father we can (very roughly) trace his ancestry back to the Ernici tribe through the city of Veroli (or Verulae as it was known in Roman times). We have designed a 7-day tour for you to come and experience this magical region through the eyes of a local foodie, and meeting the regional vignerons, cheese-makers, truffle-hunters, market stallholders, cooks, chefs and more. We’ll be hopping along to local fresh produce markets and seasonal food festival events (Sagra) at villages where each has their own particular specialty product or pasta dish, and we have a local chef lined-up to introduce you to how to cook in the traditional Ciociarian style.

We’re friends with a local vigneron who is proud to be operating the first holistic and certified-organic winery in the area. With Paolo as translator, we’ll go for a walk and talk through his gorgeous vineyard, where he is growing his vines in the natural calcium rock of the mountain – with amazing results.

Food and wine is our major focus, however just a skip and a jump away it’s possible to take a day trip to the favoured seaside resort of the Romans, Terracina. Here, the ruins of a spectacular Roman Temple of Jupiter and Temple of Venus still provide an incredible and inspiring view – and thought-provoking glimpse into the past.

Take a look at our Wild Heart of Italy itinerary >>

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